ETHICAL GOLD: A CONVERSATION THAT'S LONG OVERDUE
Ethical gold is a term we hear more and more - but what does it actually mean?
Earlier this week, we welcomed friends, colleagues and new faces to the Goldsmiths’ Centre for Creative Links: Ethical Gold - an evening dedicated to unpacking one of the most enduring, and increasingly complex, materials in our industry.
At the heart of the conversation was a deceptively simple question:
How do we make gold more ethical - for people, and for the planet?
GOLD’S ORIGINS - AND ITS LEGACY
Gold has fascinated humans for thousands of years. Not just because of its beauty or value, but because of its remarkable physical properties. It doesn’t tarnish or corrode. It lasts forever.
Its origins are even more extraordinary. Much of the gold we use today arrived on Earth via asteroid impacts over four billion years ago. That gold is still here - around 220,000 tonnes above ground, and an estimated 50,000 tonnes still left to be mined.
Gold itself is unchanging. But the way we extract, trade and use it is deeply human - and far from straightforward.
THE HUMAN COST OF GOLD
Gold mining can come at a significant cost. It can displace communities, destroy habitats, pollute rivers and contribute to carbon emissions on a scale comparable to a medium-sized country. In some cases, it has helped fuel conflict and corruption.
And yet, gold mining also sustains livelihoods. Around 20 million people worldwide depend on artisanal and small-scale mining, often not as a choice, but as a necessity.
So the question becomes more nuanced:
How do we responsibly balance people, planet and profit?
DIFFERENT APPROACHES, SHARED VALUES
One of the reasons we brought this event together was to move beyond simplified narratives - and to create space for a more honest conversation about what “ethical gold” can look like in practice.
Here’s an overview of the approaches shared by our four speakers.
RECYCLED GOLD
Recycled gold is often viewed as the most ethical option. It has a significantly lower carbon footprint - up to 600 times less than newly mined gold - and jewellers have always reused gold within their own practices. Gold, after all, is never wasted.
However, while recycled gold benefits the environment, it doesn’t directly support the communities currently mining gold. Some also question whether gold is truly “recycled” if it was never at risk of being discarded.
GOLD FROM E-WASTE - THE ROYAL MINT
Dominic from the Royal Mint introduced an exciting development: recovering gold from electronic waste, including old phones, laptops and circuit boards.
This is gold that would otherwise be thrown away, offering a practical solution for reducing reliance on newly mined material - and addressing the growing global problem of e-waste.
FAIRTRADE AND FAIRMINED GOLD
Erin and Annabel spoke on behalf of Fairtrade and Fairmined - certification schemes designed to improve working conditions, environmental practices and access to fair markets for artisanal miners.
These schemes bring dignity, transparency and traceability into an often invisible part of the supply chain. They are not without challenges - cost, consistency and scalability among them - but they represent meaningful progress.
Over ten years ago, I became the first jeweller to use Fairtrade and Fairmined-certified gold - and it remains the gold used in my own wedding ring.
SINGLE MINE ORIGIN (SMO) GOLD
Charlie introduced Single Mine Origin (SMO) gold, sourced from large-scale mines with independently verified social and environmental standards.
SMO offers full traceability and appeals to businesses prioritising transparency, though it still involves new mining - and the environmental considerations that come with it.
IS THERE A PERFECT ANSWER?
What became clear throughout the evening is that there is no single, perfect definition of ethical gold.
Every option involves trade-offs. Some prioritise environmental impact, others focus on human rights, economic development or traceability. Ethical gold is not about perfection - it’s about informed choices and continual improvement.
And that’s exactly why conversations like this matter.
MOVING FORWARD
If there’s one takeaway from Creative Links: Ethical Gold, it’s this:
We need more openness - not only about where our gold comes from, but about what our choices mean. We need collaboration rather than competition between ethical initiatives. And we need miners, makers, jewellers, buyers and policymakers in the same room.
Because only together can we move the industry forward.
Whether you’re a jeweller, a designer, a retailer or simply someone who wears gold - we all have a role to play.
